Monday, July 28, 2014

Pouring Agar Plates

Introduction
Agar plates are used for culturing microorganisms, and are used in myriad types of experiments. Agar is derived from kelp, and it added to a particular medium (such as Luria-Bertani broth or potato dextrose) to form a solid surface on which one may culture microorganisms such as bacteria, archaea, fungus, terrestrial plants and nematodes (worms). A 1-2% (g/100mL) solution of agar will be solid enough so that your culture will only grow laterally, but it is porous enough to allow the diffusion of nutrients in your medium to your hungry culture.

Reagents
Bunsen burner
In my experience, most Bunsen burners use natural gas, but a propane torch will or an alcohol lamp will work just as well. The drawback of an alcohol lamp is that you have to use a pretty concentrated solution of ethanol (like Everclear) to get a hot enough flame. Concentrated ethanol is heavily regulated in the United States, and therefore quite expensive for laboratory use, which is why I go with a propane torch.
autoclaved agar media
Latex gloves
You can also use dishwashing gloves; just make sure you sterilize the surface with unflavored vodka, ethanol, Purell or Lysol and make sure they've had time to evaporate before you work around an open flame.
sterile petri dishes

Procedure
1. Make sure your agar medium is sterile and liquid. See my section on autoclaving. The best thing to do is pull your media out of the autoclave, let it cool (swirling occasionally to keep it mixed) to the point that you can just barely handle it with latex gloves, and pour. Anything with agar solidifies around 55 degrees Celcius (body temperature is 37), so your medium will need to be warmer than that to pour smoothly. I've also noticed that the hotter I pour it, the less likely my plates are to be contaminated by errant spores. However, if it's too hot to handle it's likely hot enough to melt the plastic in your petri dishes. You can allow your agar to solidify and then microwave it to liquefy it, but (as I'm sure you already know) anything with a metal lid (like a mason jar) can't go in the microwave. Even without a metal lid, I've seen microwaving agar go really wrong (involving paramedics), so I avoid it.

2. While your medium is cooling, make sure you have a clean surface on which to work. Wiping your counter (or lab bench) down with ethanol (unflavored vodka, Everclear) or lysol will minimize the chances of contamination. Set up your plates and Bunsen burner so you can pour your plates between that crucial time when the agar is cooled just enough and when it's cooled to the point of solidifying.

3. Pour. Remove the lid from your vessel of autoclaved media and pass the top of the vessel through your flame. This will heat the air inside the vessel sufficiently to cause it to rise, lifting up (away from the sterile agar) whatever potential contaminants are hovering nearby. A thin layer of media that completely covers the bottom of the plate should be sufficient. Any thicker, and the plate will take longer to dry. If you manage to pour bubbles into your plate, quickly pass the flame of the bubbles. The heat should cause the bubbles to expand and pop, leaving you with a smooth agar surface on which to do your science. Just don't linger with the flame - you can very easily melt the plastic of the petri dish itself.

4. Wait for your agar to solidify. This should take less than an hour.

5. Invert and allow to dry. As the agar cools, water evaporates from it and condenses on the top lid of the petri dish. The water can then drip down onto the surface of your agar, making it very difficult to work. A simple way to avoid this is to simple flip the whole plate over. I usually allow the plates a day or two to dry before I use them.

2 comments:

  1. (Not to be redundant... I clicked Preview and it might have Published. I have these problems with my own blog often, though, apparently people can and do occasionally get in a reply.)

    I have not done anything like this in many years, so let me ask:

    1. Can you get _glass_ petri dishes like in the old days? You can autoclave them or otherwise disinfect them and they stand up to flame well.

    2. Aside from Everclear and purer alcohol which is regulated - in some states, you can only buy it at licensed liquor stores - can you get "denatured alcohol" say from a hardware store. That is ethanol but with _methanol_ added to make it poisonous, so no one will drink it.

    2.a. Actually, a few years ago, I was doing science demonstrations for a museum and to make fireworks in glass dishes, I heated the metal salts (copper chloride burns green, etc.) by pouring some other alcohol over them. Rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) will not burn hot enough to get the metals going. We got something similar but different. Any suggestions?

    3. When do you add the nutrients? If you want, say, beef agar, when do you add the beef broth to the agar?

    3.a. What media grow which germs? Beef, sugar, blood (sheep, e.g.)?

    4. What are we going to grow on the agar? I mean, when I was doing this in my family kitchen when I was 12 years old, everyone was sure that I was making them all sick. Can we grow the yeast that we use for making cider? (That seems safe enough.)

    Thanks for the demo!

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    Replies
    1. These are all good question. Here are your answers:

      1. Yes, you can use glass petri dishes. They are a pain to clean (as I'm sure you know), which is why most labs I've seen use disposable plates, but I've used them myself.

      2. You can used denatured alcohol, but as you noted, it is a solution of ethanol and methanol. I don't use it because the methanol is volatile, so like ethanol it evaporates. Methanol is a lot more toxic than ethanol, so unless your "lab bench" is well ventilated, I discourage the use of denatured alcohol. If it is a well-ventilated area, you could be blowing contaminants into your workspace. A laminar flow hood would prevent this, but it's a hefty piece of equipment (both in mass and dollars). IPA will also work to sterilize a surface; I've used it routinely.

      3. The nutrients are added with the agar before the whole thing is autoclaved; it assures that everything is sterile and fully dissolves the agar. Check out my post on autoclaving. As to which media grow germs, it depends on the germ. It sounds silly, but when I'm about to work with an organism I've never cultured, I Google. If that doesn't help, there's almost certainly some literature with methods for culturing on pubmed.com.

      4. Agar and water by itself will give you plates that won't grow anything very well. The recipe I'm about to post if for potato dextrose agar (PDA), and it's for growing Penicillium fungus. I'll be sure to post something soon for media that's similar to Luria-Bertani broth, media that's commonly used for a number of different microbe.

      Thanks for your interest!

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